![]() ![]() About 1/2 way through the berm, a big rock had come loose and fallen to the bottom of the berm. I was riding at Winterpark last year and came around a high speed berm really fast, then put my left foot out moto style. I honestly think that 5.10 is making the nicest, most functional, and most durable shoes available for my needs right now.Īnd as far as the toe incident. By the way, I also have 5.10 Camp 4 hiking shoes that have lasted 3 years also. Come to think of it, all my shoes from dress to hiking boots cost more than $100 so I would actually rate the price of 5.10 riding shoes as average. If I'm going to ride a $4700 bike, why would I skimp on a $100 pair of shoes. I'll will never own a new car, or a house, or have kids, but I have my priorities dialed. I'm not made of money, but I do not feel bad at all pouring all of my disposable income into bikes, skis, snowmobiles, outdoor gear, etc. The bottom line for me is that 5.10's are the best riding shoes, and the best costs money. The actual sole under your foot is average height. When you look at the sole, it does seem like it's an inch tall, but that's because it wraps around the side of the shoe for protection. They do cost more than your average skate shoe, but when you factor in how long they last, you are actually saving money in the long run. Not a loose stitch anywhere, no de-laminating of the sole, and even the original laces. Not only are these functional, they are practically as good as new. ![]() There is no other shoe that would still be functional after this much use. Impact High's that are 3 seasons old, and Sam Hill's that are 2 seasons old (inherited from my brother who works in a gear shop!) My Impact High's have easily 200 days of riding on them. I've got some 5.10 rock boots and they're pretty shit hot mind. This is made easier by bearing shoes that actualy allow me to feel where the pedals are. As for thick hobnail booties protecting your toes, I'd rather just not hit my toes on anything that might break them. Practice is going to do that, and that's what we should all be doing instead of getting fat looking at 5.10 shoes on the internet. It's a fact that while they might well be better than your average trainers, they're also five times the price and wearing them isn't going to turn a 2/10 rider into a 9. I ride with a lot of guys and almost all of them wear 5.10s when they're standing around next to the pumptrack talking. I haven't measured them but I've seen more than a few pairs in the flesh and the Sam Hill ones and those red and black bootie ones look a lot more than an inch thick to me.īandwagon? Yes. At the end of the day fivetens are overpriced. He still regularly uses Adidas Sambas though for day to day riding. ![]() No, I've never used them but I've heard they're really good from a mate who's sponsored by them. Looking forward to a long term test report on these. would be interesting to see the inside of that massive bearing housing. The only question is, can that bearing withstand those forces (where they're at their greatest) and still spin smooth and tight and not fail completely? Removing the spindle and bearings and thinning out the pedal is fine - the body can handle the stresses. but of course they must be strong and durable enough to actually use. Unfortunately, the required spindle and bearing diameters limit how thin you can go with the pedal. This is smart because bearings don't like to deal with bending or shear. This design ensures that the bearings are only loaded normally (perp. In a conventional pedal, all the bending and shear is carried through the spindle. I have to geek-out here because I think it's an interesting/ballsy approach: Simply put - pedals are cantilevers that mainly have to deal with bending and shear stresses, which are both greatest at the interface with the crank. ![]()
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